Finding the Perfect Suit
Saturday, August 14th, 2010 3:02 pmEven if you don’t work in a corporate environment, per se, you need to own a couple suits. Buying matching suit pieces is a good way to jump-start your GGG wardrobe because you can mix it up: wear the pants on their own regularly, wear the jacket with another skirt or jeans, or wear the top and bottom together when you have an interview or important meeting. Here are some tips for finding your perfect match:
1. Your first purchase should be a basic black suit, then buy a couple more neutrals, such as navy, charcoal, or dark brown.
2. Unless you already have a big wardrobe of suits, or need them because you’re, say, a tv newscaster, avoid buying brightly-colored suits. Even though a pink suit may be a great fashion statement a la Elle Woods, you probably won’t get much mileage out of it because everyone will know you wore it last Tuesday. If you are still building your collection, add a stylish and interesting, but less-conspicuous, suit into your mix by choosing a neutral tweed or pinstripe version.
3. Look for suits at department stores, such as Lord & Taylor, Nordstrom, or Bloomingdale’s. In addition, try discount emporiums like Loehmann’s, Filene’s Basement or TJ Maxx. Oftentimes, these stores have the exact same items (aka “overstock”) you see full-price at the mall.
4. Expect to pay at least $200.
5. Look for first-rate fabrics, such as lightweight wool, or high-quality synthetic blends; many great designers work with polyester, rayon, viscose, or nylon nowadays. A little bit of stretch (i.e., Spandex or Lycra) is good as well. Avoid linen or khaki suits; they are a wrinkle nightmare. Also, look for quality construction: straight, matching seams; sewn-in, rather than glued, linings; well-sewn buttons.
6. Do you go lined or unlined? Jackets and skirts should be lined, but for pants, it’s a personal preference. Many of the more stylish makers, such as Theory or BCBG, nix the pant lining on lighter weight fabrics for a more modern look and feel.
7. Here are some markers of a good fit: In the jacket, shoulder seams should be centered on the top of your own shoulders. You should have enough room in the upper arms and back to allow full range of motion (i.e., hold your arms out to the side), while still creating a fitted shape. When your arms hang straight down, the sleeve cuff should fall between the wrist bone and top of your hand. You should be able to fit two fingers in the waistband comfortably. Pants should smoothly drape down your backside, not cling or hug, especially not to the bottom half of your tush. Skirt lengths should be at or just above the knee. Pencil skirts should not ride up. In short, buy something looser off-the-rack, and bring it to your trusted tailor.
8. In addition, keep in mind what you will be wearing underneath. You’ll usually wear a button down or knit top beneath your jacket (i.e., no flimsy camisoles!), so make sure there’s enough room to accommodate. Or, you may be looking at one of those new style jackets that button all the way up the front and are worn more like a shirt. Even then, make sure there is room for a lightweight undershirt to absorb sweat. Hint: Try an uber-thin, moisture-wicking tee from brands like Autrepeau or Uniqlo.

